My Sprint came from the factory with front bucket seats and a center console between
them. While the console was still in quite good shape, it definitely was looking
a bit tired. The chrome pieces were dull and pitted, the lid was cracked and scratched
up, and the aluminum tray was really looking bad. It needed some attention if it
was to look as good as I intended the rest of the car to look. Rebuilding the console
is really an easy task. Disassembly is simple. The main part of the project that
needs some planning and preparation is that the chrome pieces needed to be rechromed
and the stainless side rails needed to be polished. The screws were very dull and
a bit rusty and also needed polishing. As mentioned above, the aluminum tray insert
was quite scratched and dented so it needed to be replaced, and the lid needed replacement
as well. Once I had all the pieces either replaced or refurbished, assembly of the
console only took about 45 minutes. While new (reproduction) console bodies are available,
I intentionally decided to keep my original console body even though it was a bit
scratched up. My original goal in this restoration was to return this car to the
way it was when new; however, I was replacing so many parts of the car with new ones
that I was beginning to feel it was turning into a different car than my old high
school & college friend. As a result, I decided to keep several items that I could
have replaced just so I could feel like I had the same car. The console body was
one of them. After the car is done and I am driving it, I know I'll be able to reach
down and touch it and know it is the exact same console I had so many years ago.
The left photo shows the metal trim pieces. The blue arrows show the chromed pieces,
the green arrows show the stainless steel side rails, and the red arrow shows the
aluminum tray insert.ýÿ The right photo shows the console body (blue arrow), the
lid retaining rod is shown by the red arrow. The lid is shown upside down (green
arrow). The yellow arrow points to the latching stud, the brown arrow points to the
bracket for the lid retaining rod, and the pink arrow points to the lid hinge bracket.
This view is with the lid upright. The blue arrow shows the stainless steel accent
trim for the lid. The red arrow shows the back side of the mounting bracket, and
more directly points to the backing plate. Instead of screws and nuts, Ford used
screws and a backing plate with three threaded holes for the screws.
This photo shows the old (bottom) and new (top) lids, with the accent trim piece
sitting on top. I glued the trim piece to the new lid with contact cement after cleaning
both the trim and the lid with rubbing alcohol (I didn't want to risk damaging the
lid with paint or lacquer thinner). In actuality, the new lid didn't look much better
than the old one. I will point this out later.
The aluminum tray insert is a little tricky to install. Firstly though, the tray
insert that was in my Sprint had a black stripe around the edges as in the photos
above; however, when this insert arrived there was no black stripe on it so I needed
to carefully mask it and paint the stripe to match the original one. In the left
photo above, red arrows point to slots in the console body for the side tabs on the
tray insert to go through. Blue arrows in the left photo point to the side tabs on
the tray insert as they were shipped, but these need to be bent down to fit in the
slots. The blue arrows in the right photo show them bent down.
The left photo just shows a trial fit of the tray insert tabs into the slots in the
console body. But the tray insert is really installed in the chrome trim piece before
installation in the body. The right photo shows it resting in place in the chrome
trim (although it is installed from the bottom).
This shows the tray insert installed in the bottom side of the tray chrome trim.
The blue arrows show five attach points, or stays, for the tray insert. This is the
most difficult part of the console rebuild. To install the tray, position the tray
so that it is just short of sliding under the front stay but still free of it. Then
slide one side of the tray under the stops on that side (red arrows). Now comes the
difficult part. You need to slightly bend the tray in the middle so that you can
get the other side of the tray under the stops on that side of the chrome trim (green
arrows). You need to be careful so as not to damage the tray insert by bending it
too much as well as from scratching the brushed side of the tray. After the tray
is under both stays on both sides, slide it slightly forward to catch under the front
stay (yellow arrow).
These photos are close-ups of the side stays (green arrows) and front stay (yellow
arrow). One of the tray insert tabs is visible in the right photo (blue arrow). Although
not readily visible in this photo, the red arrow above points to a small retainer
tab or protrusion that prevents the tray insert from sliding backwards so it is locked
in place. As an alternative to bending the tray insert so as to be able to get the
tray under both side stays, these two tabs (red arrow, one on each side) could be
bent down, the tray simply slid into place and then these retainer tabs bent back
flat to keep it in place. I chose not to do this since there is little overlap of
the aluminum tray material and I was concerned that too much bending would show up
on the dress side of the aluminum piece.
The left photo shows the completed tray assembly set in place in the console body.
The right photo shows the console body upside down. The red arrows in the right photo
show the threaded studs from the chrome tray trim protruding through the body to
which nuts are attached. The blue arrows in the right photo show the tray insert
tabs protruding through the slots in the console body. These are bent to the sides
to hold the front of the tray in place as shown below. Note the rag under the chrome
tray trim to prevent scratching.
These photos are close-ups of the tabs bent over
This photo shows the latching clip for the lid stud. It is mounted from beneath but
the screws are inserted from the top. This clip is adjustable front to rear to accommodate
final lid position.
These photos show the lid retaining rod and its associated spring. The left photo
shows the spring as it was when I disassembled the console. It had slipped out of
the loop in the end of the rod and was totally useless. The photo on the right shows
the spring properly installed.
This is a photo of one of the screws that holds the rear chrome trim and stainless
steel side rails in place. Even though the screws are stainless steel themselves,
several had rusted slightly (as seen above), and all were dull and lacked luster.
These were easy to polish up as seen below.
I set the screw lightly in the chuck of a cordless drill (tight enough to hold it
while polishing but loose enough to prevent thread damage) and then, while running
the drill at slow to medium speed, lightly pushed 0000 steel wool onto the head of
the screws. It took some time on the worst looking screws, but as you can see above
they polished up quite well. I had to use my fingernail to push the steel wool into
the low parts of the screw head.
There are six short screws for the side rails, and three longer screws for the rear
chrome trim piece.
This shows the tray assembly in place, and the rear chrome trim piece installed (red
arrow). These two pieces are installed before the side rails since the rails slightly
overlap the chrome pieces. The right stainless rail is also installed (note the lid
retention rod). The left rail is not installed just for clarity of installation order.
This is the door hinge bracket. As noted above, there are three holes for screws
in the bracket (red arrow). The screws go through the hinge bracket, through the
plastic console body and thread into the backing plate (green arrow). The three nuts
(blue arrows) thread onto studs that are integral in the lid. The holes for all six
of these mounting points are large to accommodate forward/rearward & left/right adjustment
to get the lid to fit properly.
This shows the console complete and ready for installation in the car.
As mentioned above, I was extremely disappointed at the apparent lack of quality
of the rear portion of the new (reproduction) lid. While the original stock lid was
similar, this looks even worse on the rear edge. As of the writing of this edition
I had not taken the time to research and see if perhaps there was some sort of trim
piece that was originally installed on the rear of the lid. It looks as if the rear
edge was molded to fit some sort of piece of trim that I am missing (if any of you
are aware of such a piece please email me).
Another area I am disappointed in is the quality of the stainless center strip for
the door. While it is not horrible, it certainly is not of high quality as this photo
Feel free to save this page to your computer for your personal use and future reference--no
other use is authorized without prior written permission from me. All illustrations
from the 1964 or 1965 Falcon Shop Manuals used pursuant to permission granted by
Ford Motor Company. Disclaimer: This site is not intended to instruct or teach anyone
in proper or safe methods of working on or maintaining any type of vehicle or use
of any tool and the author takes no responsibility for the use of the information